How to Install a Green House Window

Step 1

Frame rough opening equal to window call out size. Rough opening should be plumb, square, and sill should be level. For stucco applications furring strips of at least 3/8" thick, should be used around entire perimeter to allow for proper clearance or optional stucco mold can be purchased, see number 5 below. For special size Tru-Frame® Greenhouse Windows the suggested rough opening size is:

Width 5 1/2" Less Fin to Fin Dimension

Height 3 3/8" Less Fin to Fin Dimension

Step 2

Apply the flashing paper in the normal manner. First the sill strip, then the jamb strips. The top flashing goes on after the window is installed and overlaps the top window fin. (See Figure 2)

Step 3

Center the Tru-Frame® Greenhouse Window in rough opening allowing equal clearance on both sides and top. Bottom pan should line up with the finished sill height, allowing for any inside additional materials such as tile (see figure 3). Attach window to jambs, sill, and header with screws long enough to penetrate through any furring strips and deep into framing. A ribbon of caulking between the frame and flashing is a must.

Step 4

For window sizes 5' and larger, support bracing is highly recommended on each end of the window (Warranty could be void without proper support). These supports can be constructed as part of the wall framing or metal support brackets may be fabricated to adequately support the window. Support brackets can be purchased separately from your Tru-Frame® Dealer. Fasteners to be supplied by installer (1/4" X 3" Lag screws are suggested for wall mounting). Brackets must attach to the vertical studs below the window. For 8' windows a third support should also be used in the center. (see figure 3)

Step 5

Optional extruded aluminum stucco molding is cut square to fit around the perimeter of the window. Jamb moldings fit between header and sill moldings. Stucco moldings can be purchased separately from your Tru-Frame® Dealer. (See Figure 4a, 4b, and 4c)

Source: Greenhousewindows.com

How to Install a Dentil Shelf

 

Important: Please read and understand all installation and adhesive instructions prior to opening the adhesive cartridge.

CAUTION: Make sure your work area is well-ventillated and has air circulation. Adhesive is flammable, keep away from heat and flame. Please wear safety glasses and latex gloves. Avoid contact with eyes and skin. Read warning label on adhesive box. KEEP OUT OF REACH OF CHILDREN.

Note: When painting, the door and dentil shelf should be unfinished when applying dentil shelf. Door needs to be removed from the opening and placed in a horizontal position for a minimum of three hours to allow the adhesive to cure.

Tools Needed: Latex Gloves, Safety Glasses, Mineral Spirits, Soap and Water, Stir Stick, Bristle Brush and Disposable container for mixing.

Installation:

Step 1: Before You Start Protect the underside of the door by laying it flat on padded sawhorses or another padded surface. Position the door with the exterior side facing up. Thoroughly clean the door surface and the dentil shelf with soap and water. Be sure to thoroughly rinse with water to make sure all soap and residue are removed and then dry completely. Surfaces must be completely dry before going on to Step 2.

Step 2: Locate Shelf Position the dentil shelf on the door so that it's centered along the width of the door and parallel to the glass opening (suggested location is entered from bottom of glass frame and top of panel embossments). Use a graphite pencil to lightly mark the location of the top and sides of the shelf on the door face.)

Step 3: Apply Adhesive Open adhesive cartridge as directed in the “DIRECTION FOR USE” instructions on the label of the adhesive cartridge. Dispense adhesive as instructed into a disposable container and mix thoroughly with a clean stir stick for sixty seconds. Using a bristle brush, apply a thin coat of adhesive to the underside of the shelf. Be careful not to allow adhesive on the sides of the shelf. The coating should not be more than 1/16” thick and should be approximately 1/2” away from all edges to help prevent squeeze-out. Carefully press the shelf onto the door face using your pencil lines (from Step 2) as your locating guides. Apply firm pressure to ensure contact with door. You will have approximately 3 to 4 minutes to work with the shelf before the adhesive starts to set. Immediately remove any adhesive squeeze-out with mineral spirits and a clean cloth.

STEP 4: Cure Time The shelf and door should remain in the horizontal position for a minimum of three hours to allow the adhesive to cure. After three hours, the door can be finished if painting or re-installed if staining. Full bond strength is reached at sixteen hours.

STEP 5: Adhesive Disposal Wipe tip clean, retract plunger slightly and close with the special cap. Allow the adhesive in the disposable container to harden in a well ventilated area. Once hardened, properly dispose of adhesive.

Source: plastpro

When to use Tempered Safety Glass

When you are doing a window replacement job, you should be aware that there are Universal Building Codes that you need to abide by. The main one you need to understand is when it is required to use Tempered safety glass.

Tempered glass is glass that has an extra proceedure done to it to make it 4 to 5 times stronger. The proceedure involves heating the glass up, and then cooling it down rapidly. This process makes the glass stronger, and also changes the way the glass breaks. The glass shatters into small blocks that are much less likely to cause injurey. That is why Tempered glass is also called Safety glass.

The areas considered to be hazardous safety glazing areas requiring tempered glass are:

1. Glass in any door;

2. Glass in any kind of shower, bathtub area, hot tub, steam room, sauna or whirlpool area where the bottom edge of the glass is less than 60 inches above a standing surface and drain outlet;

3. Glass in fixed or operable panels adjacent to a door where the nearest exposed edge of the glazing is within a 24” arc of either vertical edge of the door in a closed position and where the bottom edge of the glazing is less than 60” above a walking surface:

4. Glass in fixed or operable panels that meets all of the following conditions:

* Bottom edge is less than 18” above floor

* Top edge is greater than 36” above floor

* Total area of glass is greater than 9 sq. ft. (1296 sq.in.)

* One or more walking surfaces within 36” horizontally of the glazing;

5. Glass in walls used as a barrier for indoor or outdoor swimming pools or spas when both of the following exist:

The bottom edge of the glazing is less than 60” above a pool side of the glazing

The glazing is within 5 feet of a swimming pool or spa deck area;

6. Glass in walls enclosing stairway landings or within 5 feet of the bottom and top of stairways where the bottom edge of the glass is less than 60” above a walking surface

You can select tempered glass on any of the windows you order from Discount Door and Window. Select "Glass Strength" option, and choose tempered glass.

For more information about the universal building code on Safety glass check our references:

Consumer Product Safety Commission

California Building Standards Commission

The Safety Glazing Certification Council (SGCC)

How to Remove an Exterior Door

The process of removing an entry door varies quite a bit depending on your situation. There are a few things you should look into first.

• Check to see if there is an alarm system built into the door. There may be wires that need to be cut, or removed.
• Check the top horizontal exterior trim, and see if there is an integal flashing that goes behind the trim. It usually sticks out a bit to direct the rain around the door. If there is, then you want to consider leaving the top trim in place. You can still put the door in from by tilting it from the inside. The video below talks about this.  
• be sure to have an assistant there to help with removing the door frame.
• Measure the door after you have removed the interior trim, and confirm that the new door you will be putting in fits the opening you are about to create.

Once you have check for these things, you ready to remove the entry door. Below is a video that can help show you how to remove an entry door that has 2 sidelights. The process of taking out an old double door is pretty much the same.

How to apply Caulk to a window

Caulking refers to the process of sealing a gap between two surfaces for the purpose of making it air and watertight. Below is the recommended process of caulking your Vinyl window. The caulks are available as an option when you purchase your window. You can also buy the separately at a hardware store.

Let's start with a basic informational video about How to Caulk Windows:

When doing a window replacement, There are 3 different places to seal the window.

   1.) The gap around the outside edge of the window where the Flush Fin touches the outside wall.

   2.) The gap between the window frame, and the wall.

   3.) The gap that the trim creates on the interior of the window.

1. The Gap around the outside edge of the window

Put additional polyurethane sealant around the outside of the exterior of the frame as needed to ensure a good seal between the wall and the window frame.Remember to leave 2 or 3 gaps at the bottom to allow moisture to seep out.

2. The Gap between the window frame and the wall

The space between the window frame and the wall varies on each window. That space should be filled in to insulate the window. To do this you should use an expanding foam sealant. You can buy expanding foam sealant in a can that dispenses through a straw.

Tips: place the foam as close to the exterior wall as possible, use only enough foam to bridge the gap to fill the void. Do not overfill the void, a ½ inch bead will stop the draft and match the R factor of most energy efficient windows. The foam is not an insulation material where more is better, foam is intended to bridge the gap and be an air barrier. Let the foam cure and then review each window to assure all voids are sealed.

3. The gap that the trim creates on the interior of the window.

To fill this gap you should use a siliconized acrylic caulking. Clean the surface, apply the caulking lightly, and wipe any remaining caulking off with a rag. You can see this 2 minutes into the following video:

Which caulk should I use?

If you are doing a window installation, we recommend you purchase 1 tube of Polyurethane Caulk, and 1 tube of Siliconized Acrylic Caulk. Use the Polyurethane on the outside of the window, and the Siliconized Acrylic on the inside of the window. You may also need some Expanding Foam Sealant, and Vinyl Trim Strips to fill in and cover up any gaps. This is explained in the Do-It-Yourself article about how to apply caulk.

Siliconized Acrylic Sealant Siliconized acrylic caulk is a little less durable than polyurethane, but it is easier to work with since it cleans up with water, and better tolerated by those with chemical sensitivities. Siliconized acrylic caulk can be painted over after is applied. The added silicone makes it more water resistant and flexible. It is the best choice for interior caulking, but can also be used on exterior caulking. The Siliconized acrylic caulk we recommend is called RCS20, made by GE: Product page for Siliconized Acrylic Sealant RCS20

Information Source: http://www.onlinetips.org/outdoor-caulks

Why replace your door or windows?

You walk or look through them every single day. But how often do you really think about the impact your home's doors and windows have on its value, beauty and livability? Home improvement experts agree that updating your windows and doors can help you save on energy bills, improve the look and infrastructure of your home and add long-lasting value.

"One of the most valuable investments you can make in your home is door and window replacement," says Lou "Mr. Fix It" Manfredini, home improvement editor for the Today Show and "USA Today Weekend Magazine." (*1)

Replacing your windows can mean making many decisions: Is it time to replace? And if so, how do you go about choosing the best replacement windows?

Performance

This is the most compelling reason to change a door or window. On top of testing your patience, windows and doors that stick aren't giving you the optimum benefit in terms of convenience and efficiency. Performance is also tied to safety-if doors are windows are not opening properly they can be a safety hazard.

Energy Efficiency

Check for drafts around doors and windows by moving a lit candle slowly around the edges. If the flame flickers, you have a draft -- one of the biggest drains on the energy efficiency of your home. Drafts add up to real dollars on your heating and cooling bills, so this is, for many people, the impetus to replace their windows or doors.

Maintenance

Older windows and doors require maintenance -- scraping, painting and caulking. Newer windows and doors feature low maintenance cladding, a protective exterior covering that requires minimal maintenance. Many newer windows also make cleaning easy with a convenient tilt feature that allows you to wash them from inside your house.

Aesthetics

Curb appeal is vital if you're selling your house and a satisfying lifestyle enhancement if you plan to stay in your home for years to come. Updated windows and doors not only improve energy efficiency and lower maintenance costs, they make your house look more appealing as well.

Manfredini advises. "The number one attribute you should look for in a replacement window or door is quality." Windows are one of the most noticeable parts of your home, so make sure you look for windows that are of furniture-grade quality.